Farmers and Handloom Weavers make up the majority of the workforce in our country. The chances of surviving a calamity can be augmented by implementing sustainable methods in these two domains. Our country has a rich, diverse and versatile tradition of handloom and various fabrics, with each carrying an essence of the region of its origin.
Handwoven fabric is in high demand worldwide due to growing awareness about sustainable clothing. However, what little is left of this textile art style may get extinct soon, and hence the need to preserve this age-old tradition.
The fabric used is plain, coarse, and easy to keep clean. Additionally, the colors used for dyeing are organic and non-toxic to both environment and humans. Dyes are made from locally available by-products, readily available in the surroundings. Yarn is dyed with Indigo, Pomegranate, Myrobalan, Kasimkari, Arecanut Juice, Jackwood, and other natural ingredients. The water post dyeing is purified to irrigate plants. The entire dyeing process is free of hazardous chemicals, making it environmentally friendly. Because the cloth is handwoven and the whole process uses very little electricity, it is both economically and ecologically viable.
Making Process
Scouring
Impurities in yarn must be eliminated before dyeing can begin. This is a necessary step in the yarn’s preparation. The yarn is then boiled in a big water tank to eliminate grease and filth. This entire process of cleaning dirt and boiling yarn is industrially called scouring.
Hot Dyeing
An acidic solution is used to prepare the yarn. Then, as a mordant, an alum is utilized. This will aid color correction. The yarn is then dipped into the dye broth, which is made to the requirements. The yarn is dipped several times in different dye solutions to get a variety of colors. The second mordant dip, which takes place during the post-treatment stage, is used for dyes that require further procedures to achieve the desired color.
Cold Vat Dyeing
The basic materials are combined in a pot and left to ferment for 1-2 days in this dyeing procedure. Then, depending on the desired hue, the yarn is dipped one or more times. Indigo, for instance, is combined with limestone in a vat to produce a blue color. On the other hand, ‘Kasim Kari’ is employed for black color, which involves fermenting a mixture of jaggery and iron rust for 15 days before using it to dip yarn. The yarn is then dipped in a myrobalan solution after it has been dyed (alalekai).
Drying
Before being sent to the weaving process, the colored and treated yarn is set out for drying naturally and uniformly.
Pre-loom
The yarn (either unbleached ‘kora’ or colored with organic colors) is wound on two sizes of bobbins, one for the weft and the other for the warp design setting. The bobbin is first wound by hand with a hand-operated wheel. The bobbins are then loaded into a design setting rack in various colors. The warp is then put into the loom to create a ‘doli,’ which is then mounted onto the frame loom, depending on the design of the warp.
Loom
The warp (doli loaded) and weft are woven on a hand-operated wooden frame loom to create the required patterns. The final fabric strength and density are adjusted based on the reed and pick of the cloth. With one ‘doli’ or bundle, an A-frame loom can produce around 240 meters of fabric. The loom can be modified with ‘dobby’ additions to achieve the necessary patterns depending on the design.
Post-Loom
Stitching, block-printing, Embroidery (Kasuthi), Tie-dyeing, Shrinking, and Ironing are some of the post-loom operations that differ based on the desired garment or finished product.
Maintenance & Care
Gently wash with mild detergents.
Wash dark colors separately.
Handcrafted products and natural dye are prone to color bleeding, handle with care.
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